Category Archives: Slow and Steady Wins the Race

| SUNDAY READING | Material Intimacies: The Labor of Creativity in the Global Fashion Industry

Material Intimacies: The Labor of Creativity in the Global Fashion Industry

by Moon, Christina Harriet, Ph.D., YALE UNIVERSITY, 2011, 335 pages; 3467525

Abstract:

This dissertation explores the global fashion industry through Material Intimacies, the social relationships and intimate encounters of new classes of fashion workers in the material and immaterial making of fashion. Countering the impersonal forces of economics and anonymity that often characterize the global fashion industry, this dissertation illuminates the intimacies involved in the everyday work of fashion among new classes of fashion workers. While scholars continue to describe the emergence of the global fashion industry through its global commodity chains and circuits of consumption, this dissertation argues instead for the intimate realms of fashion production: in the affectations for fashion worlds and imaginaries, in the formation of new social relationships and practices which have connected vast garment industries with fashion worlds, and the socialization processes which have inspired new workers into fashion. These fashion workers have refigured the meaning of labor and creativity in their everyday work, the meaning of value in the things they make, and have powerfully shaped new material realities in their forming of new social and cultural worlds. In search of “the global fashion industry,” Material Intimacies locates it in the intimate encounters and social relationships which are the global connections that enact and drive the industry.

Based on three years of ethnographic field research in New York, Los Angeles, Paris, Guangzhou, and Seoul, and drawn from participant observation, interviews, and social and oral histories, this dissertation explores design studios, corporations, showrooms, factories, and schools to connect the experiences of fashion workers with new forms of creative practice and labor emerging from the global fashion industry. Ironically, these new collectives of fashion workers emerge from the most peripheral of spaces and have become central to the creation of material and immaterial values that now drive and reproduce the industry. They include immigrant garment workers creatively making the runway collections for New York Fashion Week; Asian American fashion students attending New York design schools and as fashion designers, redefining the aesthetics of American fashion; Korean fashion migrant workers working as technical design laborers in Seventh Avenue design corporations; and first generation Korean Brazilian American fashion designers connecting their parents’ manufacturing factories in Asia with the giants of corporate retail in the Americas. Drawn to fashion to pursue creativity in work, they expose a puzzling paradox; while reproducing a system that endlessly values profit and capital accumulation, they themselves seek and embody values of the opposite: the pursuit of creativity, beauty, work with family, creating social ties through their everyday practice of work. Countering the impersonal forces of economics that reduce the global fashion industry to a world of buyers, sellers, producers and consumers, these fashion workers paint an intimate landscape of ongoing transnational social ties and cultural exchange, challenging the anonymity of how global capitalism operates.

| TIME | National Design Award for Fashion Design, 2017

SLOWAND STEADY WINS THE RACE is honored to be the 2017 recipient of the National Design Awards in Fashion Design conceived by Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum to honor lasting achievement in American design. This year also marks the fifteenth year anniversary of the inception of our studio. Over the years we have continued to refine our ten core values, investigating design through utility, integrity, simplicity, reliability, materiality, care, concept, curiosity, quality, and longevity. True design integrity is undeniable in its presence and purpose. It is what makes our foundation. Design has the power to be timely and timeless, unique and universal, ageless and cross-cultural. As a living archive and now best represented as a thesaurus of wearable design, Slow and Steady Wins the Race will continue to focus on the fundamentals of clothing and accessory design while making a commentary on the cultural anthropology of fashion, dress and function. Thank you for joining us on this journey.

About THE NATIONAL DESIGN AWARDS

The Awards are bestowed in recognition of excellence, innovation, and enhancement of the quality of life. First launched at the White House in 2000 as an official project of the White House Millennium Council, the annual Awards program celebrates design as a vital humanistic tool in shaping the world, and seeks to increase national awareness of the impact of design through education initiatives.

About SLOW AND STEADY WINS THE RACE

New York–based designer Mary Ping founded Slow and Steady Wins the Race in 2002, following the launch of her eponymous collection in 2001. The work is a continuous investigation into the elements of what we wear, how we wear it, and why. Each collection contains a commentary on the cultural anthropology of modern fashion, focusing on the fundamental characteristics of design within a wardrobe. Ping was inducted into the CFDA in 2007, and is a winner of the Ecco Domani Award and UPS Future of Fashion. Her work is part of the permanent collections of the Victoria and Albert Museum, The Museum at FIT, the RISD Museum, Deste Foundation, and the Fondation d’entreprise Galeries Lafayette.
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