An article by Mary Ping on i-D.
On Wednesday morning, I woke up sleep-deprived and confused, confronted with a different world that felt like the leftovers of a bad dream. My coping mechanism was to make a list, to ponder and rationalize. For those of us who have spent the past year — and much of our lives — fighting for women’s rights and minorities’ rights, how did we spin off our axis and miss our landing? And what does this mean for the creative industries that are critically affected by our government’s position on manufacturing and small business?
This year I was invited to present at The Museum of Modern Art’s salon examining a range of topics on design organized from A to Z for their upcoming, first-ever exhibition on fashion. I had the honor to present alongside sustainability advocate Carmen Artigas. Our assigned topic was R for Rana Plaza, the 2013 Bangladesh garment factory collapse that killed 1,137 people, and left at least 800 orphans. Very sobering and, unfortunately, very much today’s global reality.
We opened our presentation with film clips from Idiocracy, Mike Judge’s brilliant 2006 film set in a postapocalyptic future. While the movie is intended to be a comedy, Judge presciently imagined a time hundreds of years from now that might as well be today. The brand-emblazoned, thinly synthetic costumes, portrayed as conveniently dispensable (from a tissue box) and mindlessly disposable, are emblematic of the fast fashion which surrounds us now. Oh, and the president of this fictitious world is a wig-wearing, television wrestling personality with the vocabulary of a grade school bully. The film satirizes the devolution of mass culture.
This cheapened, garish future could be our reality, if our newly elected leader makes good on his promises to restrict immigration in this country. Our rich and solid garment industry is built on the shoulders of hardworking, talented immigrants (mainly women of color).
My studio has been producing in New York and Los Angeles for 14 years, and will continue to do so even if it becomes more challenging. The garment districts of these cities are composed of generations of minority immigrants, who hold the skills and committed work ethic necessary to make the clothing we all wear. We at Slow and Steady Wins the Race cut, make, and trim our garments in the United States. It is our collective responsibility as designers and manufacturers to uphold the standard of quality in what we make every day.
The ecological anthropology of everyone working together on the factory floor is an invigorating comfort. I am beyond grateful to these people and grateful for being able to work side by side with them using a common language, a shared knowledge, and a collective purpose. Tags that say “Made in the USA” or “Made in New York” are in fact made by people who have arrived from all over the world, who have come here to exercise their skill in the most equitable conditions possible. We work with machinists and factory owners from Bangladesh, India, the Dominican Republic, South Korea, many of whom are more and more quintessentially New York. The camaraderie we enjoy with our pleating factory feels like joking around with the guy behind the counter at your neighborhood pizzeria.
Trump and his cohorts’ hostile and bitter complaints about jobs leaving this country, and about the extinction of manufacturing, follow the same flawed argument as gorging on bad fast food and then blaming McDonald’s for your high cholesterol.
To adhere to a fair wage in America, time and skilled labor are a true cost that should not bear any shortcuts. I would like to see the closets of people who shop at Walmart and yet are eager to erect a wall across our southern border. How much of their clothing was purchased for the same price as laundry detergent? And what countries are listed on those tags? If you showed them the true cost of American garments, compared to those made in China or Mexico, many would be unwilling to give up the cheap price they are so used to.
I started Slow and Steady Wins the Race 14 years ago at the age of 23. My grandmother taught me everything I know about constructing garments. She landed in downtown New York in the late 60s, a widow fleeing a dictatorial regime in China that overturned all the laws her husband had written for a republic. She had to start from zero, but proudly taught me every skill she knew and with them the values of beauty and purpose she believed in — tools and qualities she learned, in turn, from her mother and grandmother. I am carrying with me 130 years worth of knowledge and an enduring belief in human equality and solidarity against fear and ignorance. This rich and inherited knowledge is what Trump’s isolationist America would lose if he builds a wall against the outside world.
As creatives, as innovators, we must fight for the qualities that make our work strong and special. For each industry this will be different. For us in the fashion industry, we must advocate for the labor and practices that work, a long path towards a better, more informed future. This is a call to arms for harmony, integrity, and tolerance, both in how we make things together and how we live together.
Isa Genzken: Portraits at Galerie Buchholz. An Exhibition to Benefit SculptureCenter
To coincide with SculptureCenter’s Annual Benefit Gala honoring Isa Genzken on November 2, Galerie Buchholz, New York, will present an exhibition of new self-portraits by Genzken. A portion of the proceeds from sales will be donated to SculptureCenter.
The series, being shown in New York for the first time, utilizes photographs of Genzken taken by artists including Wolfgang Tillmans and Gerhard Richter, among others, incorporated into Genzken’s own collage-based works.
Isa Genzken: Portraits will be on view at Galerie Buchholz, 17 East 82nd Street, from November 2–December 23, 2016.
SculptureCenter’s Annual Benefit Gala takes place at the Rainbow Room and is co-chaired by Sascha S. Bauer, Eleanor Cayre, and Eleanor Heyman Propp and co-hosted by Galerie Buchholz, Dennis Freedman, and David Zwirner.
Sunday 30 October, 4 – 8 pm
31 October 2016 – 22 January 2017
Schinkel Pavillon is pleased to announce Costumes & Wishes for the 21st Century, a collaboration between BLESS, visual artist Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster and interdisciplinary design Studio Manuel Raeder.
The exhibition will feature a series of costumes which were part of Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster’s apparitions dating back to 2013, including Edgar Allan Poe, Lola Montez, and Fitzcarraldo among others. These costumes will be staged by Manuel Raeder to perpetuate the spirit of apparitions and transformations.
In addition, during the run of the exhibition, on November Cosplay Sundays from 3 – 6 pm, visitors will be invited to try on character t-shirts and accessories designed by BLESS as well as receive hairstyling by Hiro and makeup interpretations by uslu airlines. BLESS’s collection of wearaways will offer visitors the opportunity to incorporate the characters and take their contemporary interpretations even further, off-site.
Cosplay Sundays 3 – 6 pm
Die Ausstellung wird gefördert durch die Kulturstiftung des Bundes.
Parallel to Costumes & Wishes for the 21st century at Schinkel Pavillon:
BLESS Home Berlin, Oderbergerstrasse 60, 10405 Berlin, Wednesday – Friday, 4 – 8 pm. Saturday 11 am – 6 pm and always by appointment. (please contact: +49 30 27 59 65 66)
Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster is presenting QM.15 at Esther Schipper Gallery, November 4 – December 17, 2016.
Thursday – Sunday 12 – 6 pm
Primary Information is a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization that receives generous support through grants from the Michael Asher Foundation, the Graham Foundation for Advanced Studies in the Fine Arts, the Greenwich Collection Ltd, the National Endowment for the Arts, the New York State Council on the Arts, the Stichting Egress Foundation, The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, and individuals worldwide.
And here is a letter from the co-founder / directors James Hoff and Miriam Katzeff on supporting Primary Information’s Tenth Anniversary Print Fund.
Dear Friends and Supporters,
Primary Information is excited to be celebrating our tenth anniversary during the 2016-2017 programming season. Over the past decade, we have produced over 100 publications and supported the work of more than 400 artists. This year, we will hit another important benchmark–we will have paid artists a total of more than $100,000 in artist fees and royalties. The generosity of our audience and our artistic community has been integral to this success, and we are now in need of your support again.
Since our founding in 2006, we have steadily increased the number of publications that we produce to ten per year and we plan to double this number over the next decade. In an attempt to meet the additional printing expenses that this increased programming will incur, Primary Information is seeking to raise $50,000 to establish an annual Print Fund. As we celebrate our tenth anniversary, please consider making a fully tax-deductible donation now to help enable the production of another two hundred artists’ books in the years to come.
Primary Information has proven that it is possible to produce affordable, accessible, and challenging publications while providing much-needed support to artists. Our ambitious program includes the publication of new and classic artists’ books and magazines such as An Anthology of Concrete Poetry, Avalanche, Destroy All Monsters magazine, Fantastic Architecture, Lutz Bacher’s Do You Love Me?, Darren Bader’s 77 and/or 58 and/with 19, Sarah Crowner’s FORMAT, Dan Graham’s Rock/Music Writings, Elad Lassry’s On Onions, Lee Lozano’s Notebooks, and many more. This programming year, we will be publishing works by Douglas Huebler, Tuli Kupferberg, and Carolee Schneemann, as well as a facsimile edition of Art-Rite magazine, among others.
Your support as an inaugural contributor to Primary Information’s Print Fund will prove invaluable to our continued dedication to artists’ publications and the artists who make them.
James Hoff and Miriam Katzeff
For more information please visit the website. http://www.primaryinformation.org/
(Artical from J/P Haitian Relief Organization)
Hurricane Matthew made landfall in Haiti. The southwest cities of Jeremie and Les Cayes have been ravaged by this Category 4 storm. Hundreds of homes have been destroyed, major bridges have been swept away and tragically some have even lost their lives.
J/P HRO is working quickly to assess the situation and deliver assistance to affected communities quickly and effectively. We are mobilizing an emergency response team to work with partner organizations to respond in the hardest hit areas.
We need your help. Consider donating now so that we can work hard to mitigate damage and loss of life. Once the storm passes, we will begin immediately assisting families in their recovery.
Through mud and rubble removal, medical care, housing repairs, and other critical support, J/P HRO will work quickly to help people get back on their feet.
Your support will allow us to address this crisis now. At the same time, the work J/P HRO does every day will continue to address the systemic tragedies of poverty, deforestation and rapid urbanization which amplify the damage done during natural disasters like Hurricane Matthew. Thank you for your help.
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